Sunday, February 17, 2013

LFW: Royal favorite Issa shows Navajo goes top Moscow collection of wide brimmed feathered hats, graphic printed flowing kaftans and silk jersey maxis

LFW: Royal favorite Issa shows Navajo goes top Moscow collection of wide brimmed feathered hats, graphic printed flowing kaftans and silk jersey maxis

By Deborah Arthurs

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As Cara Delevingne opened the show for Issa tonight she proved just why she is the model of the moment.

Not only did she own the catwalk, despite being shrouded in voluminous Navajo cape and feathered, wide-brimmed hat, but her very appearance sent up an audible buzz of excitement amid the hard-to-impress fashion crowd.

Jourdan Dunn walked too, in graphic print poncho and another of those broad-brimmed feathered hats.

Navajo princess: Cara Delevigne owned the catwalk and sent up an audible buzz of excitement amid the hard-to-impress fashion crowd

Navajo princess: Cara Delevigne owned the catwalk and sent up an audible buzz of excitement amid the hard-to-impress fashion crowd

Rock that look: Model of the moment Cara owned the catwalk despite being shrouded in voluminous Navajo cape and feathered, wide-brimmed hat

Navajo style dominated the looks, with feathered motifs cropping up on ponchos, dresses - and my favourite, on a shimmering blue and taupe evening gown with the feather pattern worked over in sequins.

The long, fluid lines Daniella Helayel does so well were there, as graphic printed capes, silk jersey maxis and flowing kaftans.

Daniella did fur too: a hooded poncho; a full length coat - kind of Navajo goes to Moscow.

A black backless evening gown embroidered with cut mirror and crystals was, as the notes said, a real show-stopper, and a blue and taupe deep V dress with sequined feather motifs was a must-buy.

Pause for effect: Cara's outfit was a vision of fluid silver while in motion, the firm fedora adding structure to a voluminous ensemble

Pause for effect: Cara's outfit was a vision of fluid silver while in motion, the firm fedora adding structure to a voluminous ensemble

Winged warrior: Feather detailing and prints and earthy colourways made for an elegant collection

Winged warrior: Feather detailing and prints and earthy colourways made for an elegant collection

Silver screen: A playful piece from the collection, Issa featured a space age skater dress

Silver screen: A playful piece from the collection, Issa featured a space age skater dress

Fur intentions: A cosy item to tie a look back to Navajo, the coat was paired with print

Fur intentions: A cosy item to tie a look back to Navajo, the coat was paired with print

Prints preacher: The girly 70s feel of the polo neck-shift dress pairing is toughened with leather

Prints preacher: The girly 70s feel of the polo neck-shift dress pairing is toughened with leather

Lady of the ranch: Suede boots and fur poncho nod to country Western influences

Lady of the ranch: Suede boots and fur poncho nod to country Western influences

Suited undone: A relaxed bohemian take on androgynous tailoring, with printed shirt

Suited undone: A relaxed bohemian take on androgynous tailoring, with printed shirt

A Native American vibe emits from the entirety of this ensemble, complete with coloured feathered cape

A Native American vibe emits from the entirety of this ensemble, complete with coloured feathered cape

Aztec hippy: This neutral style is a great base for many looks. Pair with chunky necklace

Aztec hippy: This neutral style is a great base for many looks. Pair with chunky necklace

Another eccentric, flowing look is pinned down with the aid of a firm feathered fedora

Another eccentric, flowing look is pinned down with the aid of a firm feathered fedora

Elsewhere, there were some classic Issa highlights: a silk plunge red dress, a flirty gold mini.

I was less fond of the styling: so many of those gorgeous dresses were layered over brown ribbed polo necks with snood hoods - an unusually muted departure for this Brazilian designer whose shows are usually glam occasions replete with lithe tanned limbs and tropical tones. Here, we were lucky to see a slender wrist or the shadow of a hipbone.

Camilla Fayed, who bought a controlling share in the brand in 2011, and father Mohammed al Fayed, were noticeably absent from the front row for the first time since they invested, though plenty of glamour came in the form of Saturdays' Mollie King, the lovely Jodie Kidd, Zandra Rhodes (who was doing pink hair way before it was trendy by the way) and a scattering of Made In Chelsea stars.

I can't say I could see any of those girls in the brown snoods, but tear those off and leave the elegant gowns on top - and then you'd be talking.

Covered up: So many of those gorgeous dresses were layered over brown ribbed polo necks with snood hoods

Covered up: So many of those gorgeous dresses were layered over brown ribbed polo necks with snood hoods

Prints perfect: Geometric designs add more structure to less fitted items - in neutral tones

Prints perfect: Geometric designs add more structure to less fitted items - in neutral tones

Slinkier pieces like this alluring blue maxi added a welcome touch of ultra-femininity

Slinkier pieces like this alluring blue maxi added a welcome touch of ultra-femininity

Tomato is well and truly out as we see red less lipstick and more earthy and crimson

Tomato is well and truly out as we see red less lipstick and more earthy and crimson

Extremely wearable jersey maxi: Topshop will no doubt be planning similar styles

Extremely wearable jersey maxi: Topshop will no doubt be planning similar styles

Mother Earth: Elegant, simple and feminine - not unlike Angelina Jolie's choices

Mother Earth: Elegant, simple and feminine - not unlike Angelina Jolie's choices

Coat of arms: Piled onto a stunning fluid moss dress, this heavy overcoat adds country glamour

Coat of arms: Piled onto a stunning fluid moss dress, this heavy overcoat adds country glamour

Nod to fashion: Designer Daniella Helayel and model Cara Delevigne walk the runway at the Issa London show today

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